Ranthambore, tigers with a thousand-year backdrop

By Niraj Kasar — Ranthambore National Park, India

Only here does a tigress walk past a tenth-century fort like she owns it, because she does. Ranthambore is the most cinematic of India’s reserves, and it knows it.

Best time to visit April and May for sightings if you can take the heat. October for the fort in green.

What to expect Zones are allotted by lottery. Every zone has produced magic, do not fight the draw.

What to carry A dust scarf, a cap, and double the memory cards you think you need.

Not just the big cats

Climb the fort on your non-safari morning. The view explains the whole park.

Read this guide on Niraj Kasar's Vaypoint map