Oman, the Gulf without the glass towers

By Niraj Kasar — Oman, Oman

Oman kept what its neighbours traded away: forts instead of malls, souqs that still smell of frankincense, and mountains that fall straight into the sea. It is the easiest hard-to-believe country I have visited.

Best time to visit October to March. Summer is for salamanders. Winter evenings actually need a light jacket.

What to expect Rent a car, distances are honest and the roads are excellent. Fuel costs less than water.

How to dress Modest and light. Shoulders and knees covered at forts and mosques, always.

The two I would not skip

The budget secret

Oman does not shout. Give it a week and it will not stop talking to you.

Read this guide on Niraj Kasar's Vaypoint map